INSTAGRAM OBSESSED

14:08

What is the first thing you do when you wake up? Check Instagram?
Do you wake up scrolling through countless Instagram posts?
In this current postmodern society, we feel pressure to be socially accepted. In todays media saturated, materialistic and consumer-led society, social media sites such as Instagram, Facebook and Twitter are at the forefront of most peoples lives. Having an Instagram account is a must have. We need to have enough Instagram likes to feel happy. "Can you like my Instagram picture?" is a question I get asked, almost daily. Instagram, unlike Facebook is a purely visual site so it comes with the excessive need to look good, and post good content. For many of us we simply go out for lunch and have a burning desire to post a picture of the really cute cafe we are in or the amazing Starbucks coffee we've just bought. The attachment you have to your phone after you've uploaded that long thought about image is ludicrous. The time you waste thinking of that perfect caption and applying that perfect filter.
Is Instagram really good for us? We waste a crazy amount of time of our lives on these social media sites, when the only content we really learn about is; Who is detoxing this week?, Who's bought those Miss Guided trousers? Who went out this weekend?. I understand Instagram has enabled the younger generation to build a career, and its another platform to communicate on (not that I think we need anymore), but social media sites like Instagram have created a growth of depression and self doubt in young teens, making comparisons between your life and someone else's, between your pictures and their pictures or between how many likes they have and how many likes you have. Nowadays the street's are completely swamped with people attached to their phones, it's hard to go out for a meal without checking your phone at least 10 times. Even the moments we should treasure, like marriage proposals and anniversary's are taken over by trying to capture the moment to show off to Facebook. & not to mention DWI (driving whilst Instagramming). 

Snapchat is another big thing taking over, I'll go out with my friends, and most of the night will be spent rewatching that snap you just posted. Which again, comes back ultimately to looking a certain way, and feeling important and superior if you have a long story, letting the world know you go out on the weekend. Everyone can now see your every meal and your every move. 

For me, this doesn't effect the way I feel about myself, as I'm in a place where I feel pretty happy with where I'm at, however in my opinion, this has a big effect on young teens. My 13 year old sister spends hours and hours on these social media sites, teens now have that added stress of feeling like they have to look a certain way. They are deluded with social media, and it seems to be getting worse and worse. Is this generation going to be able to socialise in the real world?, or is it making them brain washed. Mobile phones are completely taking over. We don't even get that small interaction with the waiter when they come to take our order,  there is now mobile phone apps in place to sort that out for you, are we living in a world that is soon going to be completely taken over by phones, leaving us with no real reason to interact in the real world. 



https://www.instagram.com/hannahcrosskey/?hl=en

ETHICS AND SUSTAINABILITY IN H&M

04:59

The fashion industry is the second biggest industry in the world. I done some research into H&M, the brand I shop at the most to see how they're helping to protect the environment.
H&M probably talks about sustainability more than any other fast-fashion brand. It produces a conscious collection made using sustainable and recycled materials, and encourages garment recycling to all its consumers, they don't test on animals and they have a voucher programme offering discounts to those who donate their old clothes at its stores. The brand states that it wants to only use recycled or other sustainably sourced materials.
On April 18, H&M kicked off a major project, intended to collect 1,000 tons of used clothes, called world cycle week, that its promoting heavily. However, Kristen Brodde, the project leader of Greenspeace Fashion, wrote in a press release "H&M's recycling week is in reality a week of illusions since only one percent of collected clothing can be used a recycled fibres", she suggests that offering garment repair services would have done more good than inviting customers to recycle their old clothes and buy new ones.
They have even made a music video promoting this cause in collaboration with rapper M.I.A. Businesse's can become more sustainable both environmentally and economically by collaborating. Big brand collaborations such as H&M and Alexander Wang, Apple and Burberry have been success's due to the fact they offer a sense of exclusivity to draw the customer in and the fact that each brand sits of opposing ends of the market allows them to tap into each other's audiences. The collaborations create something new and innovative, allowing the success of the brand to be sustained in their own market as well as being generated in a new one.

But is H&M really as ethical as it portrays to be? with the irony that H&M has been given the international ethics award, despite being the biggest buyer of clothes made in Bangladesh manufacturing about 25 percent of its clothing, where the minimum wage is the lowest in the world. Its been named one of the best companies to work for despite 850,000 of its textile workers are not being paid a fair wage, which they cant even live on, only 36 dollars a month!!! Some labor groups have even said that H&M put workers in unsafe conditions, by looking for the cheapest work possible.
Although H&M is one of the biggest buyers of organic cotton, it still only accounts for 13.7 percent of its total garment production. Fabrics like cotton are sustainable and easy to produce however others have a much more damaging effect on the environment. For instance the fur industry is thriving currently and struggling to reach the demand, especially since regulations of what fur is permitted to be used, produced and sold where.
H&M manufactures at least 600 million items each year and operates more than 3,200 stores in 55 countries, and if you include its subsidiary brands, such as COS, that number jumps above 3,500 stores, and the company is expanding its locations by 15 percent each year. To operate those stores, not to mention manufacture and ship the clothes requires hell of a lot of resources including, electricity, oil and water. Even if the brand manages to help the environment slightly from one year to the next, its business continues to grow, which remains enormous and far from sustainable.



http://www.huffingtonpost.com/shannon-whitehead/hms-conscious-collection-_b_7107964.html

http://projectjust.com/brand_hm/
http://about.hm.com/en/sustainability.html

EMERGING MARKETS & EVERYTHING DIGITAL

01:58

Digital marketing has emmersed over the last decade. It's gone crazy, everyone is now online!
Outlets like TV commercials and magazine adverts do not achieve the promotion of a product like they used to. The increase in the use of mobile phones means brand marketers have many more ways of communicating directly and interactively with their target consumers, its all about nurturing the platforms where the cosumers spend most their time. Online sales have become the industrys most important engine of growth and young buyers spend more time on social media than reading magazines or watching TV. The internet is getting more and more important, digital is expected to drive 40% of projected sales growth from 2013 to 2020, as oppurtunitys to open physical retail space diminish as consumers increasingly opt for the convenience of online shopping. In the past 5 years online sales of luxury goods grew four times faster than offline sales. 80% of fashion brands now have a mobile site; less than half did in 2012.

The four largest emerging and developing economies are BRIC conutries (Brazil, Russia, India and China). The future of digital media is in emerging markets like China and India. Social media use in developing economies has risen loads in the last few years. All thanks to the introduction of smart phones, these mobile-first markets are accessing the internet with affordable devices at reasonable rates, creating an oppurtunity for marketers to connect with consumers in countries that have been off the digital grid. However mature markets still lead the way in digital earnings, with the United States ranked number one, followed by Japan, Germany and the United Kingdom.
"Emerging markets are ripe for digital media investment. However understanding what markets to focus on, as well as how and when to enter them is crucial to succeed." - John Nendick, EY Global Media & Entertainment Leader.


Adapting to the web, to sell and communicate with customers, is a challenge for many in the luxury fashion business. Chris Morton, chief executive of Lyst.com, a multi-brand online luxury retailer said no company in the industry could afford to ignore the web. "A luxury brand that avoids the internet is effectively refusing to engage with its customers where they are increasingly spending time and money", he said. "It is not listening to what its customers want, which is dangerous in any consumer-facing industry". The production studio at Burberry's headquarters in London's 'Horseferry House' outputs a never ending stream of digital content, feeding the brand's website and social media channels and reflecting the company's chief creative, Christopher Bailey: "We are now as much a media-content company as we are a design company." The investment has helped make Burberry one of the most successful brands on social media, with one of the highest number of 'likes' per post on Instagram, which Luca Solca, head of luxury goods at Exane, say's "its by far the most relevant social platform for luxury brands." Other top performers include Michael Kors, Chanel and Louis Vuitton. Yet some important luxury brands have failed to bring their strategies in line with todays media reality. Celine, has neither e-commerce nor a social media presence. Celines Instagram account carries less than 10 posts and only 2,000 followers while its star designer Phoebe Philo is barely present. She was even quoted saying she "would rather walk down the street naked than join facebook". But if she wants to keep her brand relevent, she might just have to abide by the digital craze. In contrast, Chanel has 15 million followers, while its creative director Karl Lagerfield has 3 million followers and around 700 posts. The majority of luxury brands remain slow to build their digital capabilities and lack e-commerce sites geared towards important emerging markets, including China, Brazil, Russia, South Korea and the UAE. Some lack e-commerce all together.



http://ww2.cfo.com/technology/2015/02/emerging-markets-ripe-digital-media-investments/ 
http://www.ey.com/gl/en/industries/media---entertainment/ey-accelerating-digital-media-adoption
https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-tech/the-digital-iceberg-luxury-fashion-marketing
http://fortune.com/2016/09/27/lmvh-digital-strategy/
https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-tech/burberry-remains-digital-luxury-leader-celine-trails

TRIBES, MY PERSONAL STYLE (& carbooting)

08:01

My style is very minimal and my wardrobe palette is very muted. However I do like to go a bit cray with my accessories now and then, I'm down for a bright bag and a textured shoe. 
You know, just to keep it interesting.
Oh and I love my bargains, I've been thrifting since year 7.

I'm a massive Mary-Kate and Ashley fan, and I bloody love their style. They dress so effortless but always look so chic and cool. They are killing the "Oh.. I just threw it on" look.
I am constantly thrifting for a standout Olsen ensemble, from the long oversized coat to the slip on loafers.



I am the biggest carboot fiend, a vast majority of my clothes are thrifted. I roll out of bed every Sunday morning at 7am, throw on whatever clothes have to hand, but layering up of course - British weather and all. I get in the car, and off I go to the carboot. Me and my mum always get there super early and have a procedure in set, (we take thrifting very serious) we have a lil chat on route to discuss what exactly we are looking for, so this way, we can have two sets of eyes preying on the stalls. But once you're there its hard to stop buying! As you can imagine its hard to say no to a £2.00 jumper from & other stories. So, as a result my draws are exploding with clothes. Yet, I'm always stuck in that vicious circle of never having anything to wear...
My shopping strategy is based on bargain hunting. So, it is very hard to comprehend buying a £29.99 jumper from Zara, when you just bought one for 50p at the carboot. However in reality most people would say £30 for a jumper is pretty reasonable. This is an on going struggle of mine, I am never completely satisfied, I feel the guilt everytime I put it on. I mean,  I even haggle down at a carboot! £3 for a jumper seems a lot in that environment. 

Okay, this blog started of being about tribes and my personal style but I kinda went off on one about carbooting. So lets talk tribes! 
We all fit into a certain tribe, whether we like it or not.
After filling out a questionnaire, I found that I fit into the 'Trendie Tribe' and this is what they have to say about me...


http://www.channel4.com/programmes/find-your-tribe
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=mary+kate+olsen&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjryKPziM_QAhXFAMAKHdyUDyQQ_AUICCgB&biw=1278&bih=634

INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY

06:07

Intellectual property rights is a term that refers to the way in which original creations and the rights of their creators are protected. Without legal obligations and limitations, someone else might patent your idea or take advantage of your invention leaving the original creator with no rights over their idea. Which is never good!

Personally, I think fashion is a very repetitive industry anyway, the amount of similar ads and trends we witness being copied daily is crazy. High street fashion stores reinterpret the trends from the luxury brands on the catwalk, which I'm sure a vast majority of you own something which has been a reinvention from the catwalk. I myself have a "Chloe" bag from Forever 21 and some "Gucci" slips ons from Topshop. I think it is completely acceptable to be inspired by trends, as fashion is an industry that thrives of inspiration. However when the copies are true stitch for stitch copies and they have recreated the exact look then they usually find themselves in trouble with the law. Elaine Maguire O'Connor, a fashion lecturer argues "The near-identical copies of luxury fashion designs are available on the high street dilutes luxury labels' brand equity and makes their products less desirable, if the luxury customer has seen that design in Primark or H&M, then they're less likely to pay all that money." I do completely agree with this and if it was my designs getting ripped off then I would be annoyed. But me being a 20 year old fashion loving student, I can say I really do appreciate the bargains reinvented from the catwalks as it gives people with less income a chance to be on trend.

Luxury brands do not usually reinterpret other brands designs as they have their reputation at risk, so we only usually see it happening in the high street stores. But when a big brand does appropriate another creators designs it usually gets taken further and could face a lawsuit. Jeremy Scott for example, the creative director of Moschino had a lawsuit filed against him for stealing Graffiti art designs from Joseph Tierney also known as 'Rime". Tierney claimed that Jeremy Scott appropriated elements of the "Vandal Eyes" mural he created on the side of a Detroit building in 2012 into his fall collection for Moschino. The creative director filed to have the graffiti artists case dismissed, arguing that he cannot claim copyright infringement because his work was an act of vandalism and shouldn't be protected by the law. Tierney did not obtain permission from the building in Detroit before creating his mural, which ultimately leaves him with no foot to stand on.




http://d2jv9003bew7ag.cloudfront.net/uploads/Untitled123.jpg
http://www.thefashionlaw.com/home/graffiti-cannot-be-copyright-protected-claims-moschino-jeremy-scott

FASHION MARKET LEVELS

00:56

So, every single brand or label can be separated into one category of fashion. 
Here it is divided into a hierarchy of 5 segments, starting from Haute Couture to High street/Economy.
Haute couture is positioned at the top of the hierarchy. It is the most expensive and it reaches out to a very small market. You usually have to be either very rich, a royal or have the status of Kim K to wear haute couture. Haute couture houses are the major fashion houses in the world, run by internationally famous designers such as Chanel, Prada and Alexander McQueen. It is made to order which means it is customised pacifically to each client, therefore the great thing about haute couture is that it cannot be replicated. For a garment to be considered Haute couture, it must meet the requirements of the French ministry of industry. Sounds super fancy, right? The most important marketing strategy for this group is the runway shows that run twice a year where they get the chance to present their designs to the public.

Luxury Fashion (ready to wear) comes after couture on the hierarchy.
Brands such as Prada, Burberry and Gucci would fall under this division.
Luxury Fashion is usually Produced but not mass produced which means there is more control and limited availability. Usually, the best form of promotion for this division is catwalks at Fashion weeks in Milan, Paris and London etc. China is the largest consumer of Luxury products, usually the consumers of the luxury brands have a high disposable income with the market being mostly people aged 35-54.

Diffusion brands are then next, a diffusion line is offered by a luxury brand to make it more affordable and entice a new market, the brand having a second line ultimately makes for more money and publicity. The diffusion line usually offers more variety than the luxury brand as the luxury brands like to stick to their niche products in order to not devalue their brand. The diffusion brand is supposedly meant to be 30 percent cheaper than the luxury brand. Some examples include ‘SEE by Chloe’, ‘RED by Valentino’ and ‘Miu Miu’ by Prada however you can argue that ‘Miu Miu’ has become a luxury brand in itself as the price's have gone up and now they are just as high as Prada, even though they have different target demographics. 
Bridge brands sit above the high street and below luxury fashion. It is used as the bridge between the expensive market and the more moderate pricing, so you could say, its the top end of the high street. COS, LK Bennett, Joseph and Whistles would be an example of a bridge brand. This audience is usually 30+ and earning a moderate amount of disposable income. 

& Lastly, the fastest moving sector in the fashion market. This is the sector in the hierarchy I buy from, High street. I mean I would love to be a luxury brand consumer. Hey, even a bridge brand consumer. But for now with my student budget I will have to stick to high street. Not that I'm complaining, I do love H&M and Zara. High street is also the fastest moving sector in the fashion market. 

DESIGNER CLUSTERING IN LONDON

03:41

The location of a shop plays a big part of their marketing and sales. All brands have their respective positioning in the fashion market hierarchy, where it is considered high end or high street through the brand identity established by the creator or the brand image the consumers have curated. 

I explored London to check out the designer clustering around some of Londons well known shopping locations. I visited Oxford street, Bond street, Sloane Square and Covent garden which enabled me to understand the significance of how placing a shop in a certain area can effect marketing and ultimately generate more sales. 

This task, I must say was a bit of a challenge for me because it gave me an excuse to go and do some window shopping, which we all know ultimately leads to actually getting your credit card out and leaving the shop with a few too many bags. Well in my case anyway. When I step out onto Oxford street, its quite the challenge for the unfortunate person accompanying me to drag me away, as all the store's I can afford are all clustered a few steps away from one another. 
What a great tactic for sales. Who knew? 
I only picked up some Levi jeans and some black boots from Zara. 

I checked out New Bond street which is supposedly Europes busiest boulevard, being the home of many fashion outlets that sell prestigious and expensive items. Luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Prada, Chanel and Alexander McQueen. All the stores are placed opposite each other as they all have similar target markets. This may ultimately generate sales for the other stores as one company's customer may walk past one of the competitor's shop fronts and go in and make a purchase. 
Sloane street is very similar as they also sell haute couture and luxury brands, and you will find their competitors very close by. Covent garden also named as the beauty quarter, have a collection of high street and high end stores clustered together, such as Mac, Bobbi Brown, Chanel and Dior. Even though Mac and Bobbi Brown are not as high end as Chanel and Dior. The stores being situated together allows the customers to do all their beauty shop in one location and pick and choose the products from each store, this boosts the competition. 

Lastly, is of course Oxford Street, which was the busiest, it really isn't a fun place to be this time of year. Oxford street is high street fashion which for the majority is mass produced. This appeals to the middle class consumers which is a very, very big market. 







http://www.trazeetravel.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Oxford-Street-London-England-%C2%A9-Elenaburn-Dreamstime-31405646-e1464786815408-1000x399.jpg

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